Now re-stocked along with our University Stripe and Green Stripe.” Thanks, though I am a little perplexed as to why there is a review of a shop which hasn’t even opened yet. As you likely know, most of my wardrobe is composed of pieces from mid-tier brands like, At the same time, I wanted to try entry-level luxury tailoring, preferably in made-to-measure (MTM) to avoid the above-mentioned problems with RTW. Would be interested to read…. The name Anglo Italian obviously reflects the shop’s aesthetics – a somewhat modernized version of a mid-century style, when the Italians used to look to the English for their cues – but it’s also reflective of Jake and Alex’s personal backgrounds. The problem is this segment of the market is quite limited. The plan is to offer a lot of made-to-measure tailoring, with try-on samples of the various sizes - and here there will be two styles of shoulder, one roped and one Neapolitan-style shirtsleeve. What would you say is better or worse? ANGLO-ITALIAN TESSUTI. Thanks for this report! I cannot predict this shirts and jackets’s quailty of name? The jacket drapes nicely in the chest and doesn’t pull even the tiniest amount at the waist. ), 57 Weymouth Street. It is a beautiful worsted MTM trouser, with a special colour ( kind of green, cream…hard to define). I wish Jake and Alex all the best, and look forward to seeing the shop develop. 1000yardstyle. Anglo-Italian I quickly took notice of this new shop from Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis (both formerly from The Armoury). Slowly but steadily, London is bound to reverse the tide. However, I’m not sure I'd commission another suit because while I'm quite pleased with the suit, there are just enough issues at the margins to keep me from enjoying it unthinkingly and make me question if it was worth the added cost in time and money. This is always going to be my mainstay because I try to keep my spending on menswear within reasonable limits, but as a perfectionist I’m increasingly frustrated with the minor imperfections of ready-to-wear (RTW) and the time-consuming and often expensive alterations required to fix them. Again, very different to a bespoke maker. I’ve come to like it more, but I don’t think I’ve fully made up my mind about it yet. are they similar to any of the big Italian names, I usually find Italian RTW is too boxy (e.g. At first, I thought it was an alterations mistake, but it’s clearly present in the photography on their website and is an element of the house style. We present seasonal collections and produce made-to-measure commissions year-round. Anglo-Italian is run by Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis (ex The Armoury buddies). The shop is small but well-balanced, and the same is true of their first collection—although many of … So yes, you want a more casual shoe probably. No real sartoria makes ready-made garments – it’s a factory but a small one with a small and higher end operation within it. Jake, a native Londoner, worked for a while on Savile Row and then Drake’s. Of course, I’ve believed that Alex and Jake is ones of the tremendously professional directors in contemporary classic scene since The Armoury HK, which place I visited and bought some. Several people suggested alterations that could be made, but I was wary of turning it over to my local tailor who I feared might ruin some of the more intricate details of the suit. If you live in London, you can visit Anglo-Italian’s store in Marylebone, but for those of us in the US, you need to make an appointment at one of their trunk shows in New York or Los Angeles. Adding to the comment regarding the suede bombers- Simon, when are you planning to write about your Stoffa suede jacket? Just an Italian kid who likes langauges. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors were going up a few minutes before everyone arrived. Over time, I made the decision to entrust my tailor with a few small alterations in the hopes of tidying up some of the fit issues. Wassup, or how I’m used to say on Youtube and on Instagram fair points. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. House cloths are normally the lowest price, the same as mine. I hope you always write professional and crucial analyses. I'm sure my feelings towards the suit will evolve over time as I wear it and that will be the deciding factor in my decision whether not to commission a second suit in the future. I don’t think it’s particularly relevant, to be honest. Shot in Fulham, London. Hi Simon The stand-out piece here is a suede bomber jacket, available ready-to-wear in tan and dark brown. It is the most expensive tailoring purchase I’ve made and one I can’t and won’t make often or even yearly, but as I slowly work to upgrade my wardrobe it was the right choice at the time. Making clothing, especially tailored-made, is needed to get the number of shoulders, chest and bottom of ratio for pattern of composition, so that shape of jacket would be made differently. If I work up the courage to take it back to the tailor, the sleeves could be picked up in the back just a bit and there's a little excess fabric in the back still. More importantly, It is a broadly fact that Belvest’s products and Hermes are also different shape, despite belvest provided to their products hermes ordered, even details, yet Belvest is quite one of the finest tailloring made suit brands in the world. I currently own two (different styles, different vendors). I thought about trying Ring Jacket from The Armoury, but their RTW suits cost from $1400 to $1800 and MTM starts at $2350. Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jackets start at £1490 (including VAT) and go up in four tiers, depending on the cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 and £2200 (the latter just for cashmere). Bombers were 850 I think, will double check the MTM price. Best congrats to him and Alex Pirounis! The way in which Anglo-Italian slims the waist of a jacket also produces more pronounced hips than I am used to, an effect you can just barely see in the head-on photo. At the same time, I wanted to try entry-level luxury tailoring, preferably in made-to-measure (MTM) to avoid the above-mentioned problems with RTW. Thank you. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their, If you live in London, you can visit Anglo-Italian’s store in. It is fantastic to have another independent menswear store in London, doing well-considered, quality clothing, that is highly wearable and relevant to a modern man. I’ve never owned a jacket with generous drape or extended shoulders before and it’s a fairly sharp change of silhouette that was jarring at first. Anglo-Italian ** Best to wait for images of the jackets themselves to get an idea of style, or of course visit them. Keeping with the business theme, I picked a delightfully dry-handed and subtlety textured charcoal fabric and chose flapped pockets to keep the suit formal. I’ll be interested to see how the tailoring compares to p Johnson given the similar pricing, It will be pretty favourable in terms of quality of work. Any operation large enough to make decent volume of RTW can also make to different styles and cuts – otherwise their clientele would be pretty limited. This aesthetic carries across into the jeans - perhaps the most interesting category of the lot. Anglo-Italian is a young company, but its founders Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis both have a long history in menswear. Places like Stile Latino and Lardini make different shapes, but they are also selling as brands – which is why those shapes are defined for their retail, but not necessarily for different customers. The logos on the suit, hanger, and garment bag are tasteful and delightfully retro. John. Jake, a native Londoner, worked for a … I really wish this guys all the best. Thanks. Follow Jake on Instagram. Tennis Sweater. How would you rate the quality of the suede? An excellent choice of location making Marylebone High Street and go to location for beautiful menswear. House cloths are normally the lowest price, the same as mine. I adore the signage and cannot wait for June. Curious to know because Formosa seems the only other Naples house that offers hand-padded lapels in RTW and the pricing seems equivalent. I would like to ask about your professional review how to analyze Anglo American. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian … The Anglo-Italian garment bag and hanger that come with the suit are both gray and lovely. Hi Simon, I fully understand and agree with your critical review, and some particular factories or manufactures cannot fairly decide to reveal quality of clothing. In terms of Anglo Italian, you said that Tailoring jacket and shirts is made by italy, especially Naples. David lives and works in Washington, D.C. Like many men, his passion for classic menswear began at work, but it was soon obvious few others viewed tailoring as anything other than an unfortunate necessity. There is also some rippling across the mid-back which might necessitate lowering the collar. Made in Naples, just stuck in Germany with shipping! Received my first Anglo Italian RTW jacket just before Xmas and I’m pretty impressed. Yes, a little, though the make is so soft they will largely be ok. And the MTM has a spalla camicia option as well. The hanger is exceptionally sturdy and gray stain is beautiful and quite unique. Other alternatives were Sartoria Formosa and Sartoria Carrara from No Man Walks Alone, but they were similarly priced and still RTW. Are there plans for a “Permanent Style LIVE” function on the website? Those would be my top two, but I haven’t tried a large range so don’t really feel I can recommend that many. Very quick off the mark there, Simon. Feb 9, 2020 - Anglo-Italian on Instagram: “Jake in our Reverse Stripe OCBD. As you mentioned it in this article, could you elaborate (or refer to a previous article dealing with it). There has been quite a lot of anticipation as to the shop’s opening, and questions about what it will contain – indeed, a reader asked in the comments only last week when I was going to publish any details about it. Many thanks for the article. In that particular case, though, I’d suggest style would be as important as anything, given they are pretty different. Also, knowing where they are made would not have any affect on the make or style. Jake Grantham & Alex Pirounis on behalf of all at Anglo-Italian. Jake and I discussed his life growing up in Wimbledon, the world of classic menswear and how in his eyes, hardcore music and tailoring have a lot more in common than what you think. There is lots of handwork: hand-fixed collar, hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached lining, and most usefully of all, a hand-padded lapel (though not chest). 209 notes. I will visit London from 4th to 10th June, could you let know when will they officially open & the actual address, thanks! Do you know which factories P Jonson and Anglo Italian make from? The style is a little different though – AI softer and more neapaolitan, though with a touch of rollino in the shoulder. The jackets are in faded checks and the trousers come in soft browns and greens; the ties and scarves too are muted and versatile. I can’t really offer a full opinion on Anglo-Italian until I have something made for myself, but that should happen fairly soon. The leading British blog on tailoring, luxury and men's style. Hand-padded lapels have arguably less benefit. I’ve just tried them actually, and the quality’s good. Any addition of quality menswear shops such as this one is to be celebrated of course. This may just be the reaction everyone has when they move from mid-range RTW to luxury MTM tailoring and it's true that a second suit would likely fix some or all of these issues. The waist is just right, something that may seem rather minor, but when you wear high-waisted trousers without braces is actually crucially important. Nov 7, 2019 - 24.1k Followers, 5 Following, 425 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) I have ordered, and received, the Bradbourne loafer in dark brown sided with city sole, in the last 72. Does favourably mean better? It is the foundation. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian has captured the mood of this moment in menswear. It’s hard to be comprehensive at this stage given I haven’t fully reviewed either. I’ve recently bought a pair of AI shaved trousers (khaki)- but I’m struggling to find the right pair of shoes to wear with them?? Previous Post. I haven’t tried either so can’t comment on fit. The price is good given the amount of handwork: around £990 for a jacket, £1300 for a suit, with a small uplift for made to measure. Plus brands move, as I know Anglo Italian have. And from that perspective too, one can be confident! Generally, yes. Hopefully, the Anglo-Italian products will be befitting of Jake and Alex’s youth. However, in terms of pattern or cut, it is quite different idea from your review. Alex is positively lovely and has many great stories to tell which make every trunk show with him enjoyable. These are really good news! It can be misleading with any brand – as the customer assumes being made in a particular factory means a particular quality of make, when it often doesn’t. Cut in an aviator style similar to the Valstar, its distinctive feature is a high collar of ribbing that can be flipped up or down - the latter being warmed and having a lot more swagger. Just had a browse around their web store. I will likely buy again from Anglo-Italian as I like the brand's aesthetic and their ties, sweaters, and shirts are easily some of the best in the industry. Their denim is available both in store and online. (Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open in London), has been published on Permanent Style And ninety per cent of the product for this season is there, so pretty complete already. Do You know how their Chinos are compared to Chinos from drakes and incotex?. 5 Apr 2020 - Anglo-Italian on Instagram: “Jake wears our Cashmere Tie in Grey Prince of Wales Blue Overcheck, made-to-measure Suit and Shirt.” On the trousers, I had my tailor shorten the hem and widen the leg below the knee to a 7.5" opening. Feb 9, 2020 - Anglo-Italian on Instagram: “Jake in our Reverse Stripe OCBD. I visited AI during a recent trip to London. I am currently looking at getting a suit for the first time in MTM and am checking places like AI and SamanAmel. As much as I love raw denim, and would pretty much always prefer it, you can never get the same colours as the lightest fades here. Could you explain the difference? The exclusive loafer models are now offered with a rubber City Sole. One other process improvement I would recommend is a change of location. I bought a pair of their C&J loafers last year but they didn’t work out for my wide feet, and their balmacaan raincoat earlier this year which I love, but I’d yet to try their tailoring. Authentic Tailoring From No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara – Anglo-Italian’s Pitch Perfect Blend of English Sobriety and Italian Panache – SuitSupply’s Excellent Hidden in Plain Site Jort Line Chad Prom is a RTW line created by the guys at the bespoke tailors B&Tailor in Korea. The trousers in particular are quite excellent now. Absolutely and totally I will buy their finest products. I chose Drake's and Anglo Italian to visit. After reading “a sliding scale of formality have I been considering a norwegian splittoes (brown leather) in leather or a suede oxford. Hi Simon, do you think a hand-padded chest can benefit a RTW garment as well? Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. Best regards, A flying visit to Anglo-Italian I recently had a chance to visit Anglo-Italian on Weymouth St., the new venture of Alex Pirounis and Jake Grantham, both formerly of The Armoury . How do You like A-I RTW trousers ? If you have any thoughts or questions about this review, leave a comment or shoot me an email, I’m more than happy to chat in more depth. If I know Jake Grantham — and I do — Anglo-Italian will be one of the best shops around. 2020-jun-11 - 1,053 Likes, 14 Comments - Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) on Instagram: “Jake wears our Light Wash Denim Button Down with our Sports Jacket in Grey Glencheck Cotton, Wool &…” Hi Simon thanks for sharing – I look forward to checking it out! Hiya, how was your day? Our Crockett and Jones for Anglo-Italian collection has been restocked and we have also introduced a new style, Studridge in Espresso Calf. 33k Followers, 4 Following, 579 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) A very interesting job indeed! I have a solid collection,but... John Simons – the shop, the history, the influence. Thanks Knud, yes someone pointed out above that it had changed, Some tailors like it, because it means they can take on another work if they want to. These winter friendly soles help to protect the shoe against damp conditions, but remain Goodyear welted and made to Crockett and Jones' exacting specifications. I have a Formosa RTW sport coat (where the chest is padded by hand I believe) and the swell at the chest is just lovely. He met Alex Pirounis there, and they both eventually left to start their shop in London called Anglo Italian.If you want to hear more about that, I def encourage you to listen to Jake's first pod we did together. On the trousers, I chose double reverse pleats and two inch cuffs to balance out the visual interest of the double-breasted jacket and a button fly because I think they lay flatter. I don’t want to give you the impression the choice was merely made for the price though. I´will have to wait until next time I coming to London to see them. Anglo-Italian offers two shoulder choices, spalla camicia with or without roping. Like many men, his passion for classic menswear began at work, but it was soon obvious few others viewed tailoring as anything other than an unfortunate necessity. For a first commission, I think this suit is a success. Simon, is your full review of your P Johnson jacket and trousers coming? There are also a couple aspects of the Anglo-Italian house style that taken some getting used to. On a par with RL purple label, or Stoffa – or a bit below that? And do know how the quality is? May 16, 2020 - 1,658 Likes, 5 Comments - Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) on Instagram: “Jake. Yes, and it’s certainly not boxy (more Italian) and not too tight or short. And finally, the make isn’t really the prime sell with Anglo-Italian for me – it’s the cut and the style, which Jake and Alex could take anywhere. He hopes this blog can provide others with just a small bit of inspiration on their own sartorial journeys. Do you know the approximate price of the suede jacket, MTM, off the top of your head SImon? On my next pair, I will decrease the inseam slightly and widen the leg opening to seven and a half inches, which should correct this issue. Yes, hand padding will make a difference, whether RTW or bespoke. A minor cosmetic detail was wrong as well, I'd asked for only one rear pocket, on the left side, and the trousers came with one right rear pocket. I emailed Alex and he assured me everything was easily fixable and he would be in touch when he would be in NYC next. If you have very wide feet, that might be an issue. I’m considering a MTM jacket and deciding between Anglo-Italian and drakes. I wanted a three-season suit, so we made the jacket and trousers unlined. It gives it curve and roll, it builds in fullness – it shapes the jacket and carves it, where elsewhere you can only drape. Any idea if so who makes for them as it would give an idea of make and style since their is such variation between the neopolitan makers? In the future, I would change about the leg opening of trousers, which at seven inches is on the smaller end. I know these 2 guys at Armoury in HongKong, didn’t know they start their own business together until now. The problem is this segment of the market is quite limited. More complicated would be adjusting the jacket for my lower right shoulder. Compared to a Cavendish (last 325), it wears a bit more snug in the forefoot. There is also a navy-nylon field jacket, to wear over the tailoring, a range of odd trousers, to wear with the bombers or the tailoring, and a selection of crewneck knitwear. As you can see in one of the pictures above from the second fitting, the sleeves were too long (hitting mid-hand), the waist of the jacket needed a good amount of slimming, and the inseam was too long. Canali) or is short and tight (e.g. And I would ignore the factory point – it’s not necessarily any indication of the quality, and besides that quality is on display in the garment itself. We pride ourselves on designing the entirety of our universe, from cloth to clothing. I’ll hopefully be doing so soon however. #Florence #PItti #Pitti Uomo #Jake Grantham #Alex Pirounis #anglo italian company #mens street style #street style. Would you let me know which brand or factory is making? Thank you for your time. Thanks for reading this long-winded review. Anglo-Italian Made-to-Measure Double-Breasted Suit Review, Updated, Before I get into the review of the suit, I want to explain why I chose Anglo-Italian for this commission. We are proud to present Anglo-Italian Tessuti, our own collection of cloth, woven in England & Italy. Advice? I also went for a single rear pocket because the simplicity appeals to me and it is the more formal choice. Alex visits both cities every few months. The two themes of tailoring and customisation extend into the casual clothing. Before opening Anglo-Italian last summer, Pirounis ran the Amoury’s outpost in Hong Kong, and his business partner, Jake Grantham, is a Savile Row veteran—so they know their clothes and customers. I love the roll knit collar idea, having never seen that style presentation before. I received the final just after Christmas. If you haven’t checked out Anglo-Italian yet, I encourage you to do so. Best wishes to Jake and Alex! I picked a double-breasted suit, because it’s Anglo-Italian’s more distinct offering, whereas their single-breasted suits are similar to many other Neapolitan designs. thanks for the info Simon. I have always wondered (and doubted) about the real advantages of a hand made chest padding, same question for hand made lapel padding. In comparison, this Anglo-Italian suit cost $1,800 and seemed reasonable given the level of hand work and the customized fit. Click on an image to enlarge. Before I get into the review of the suit, I want to explain why I chose Anglo-Italian for this commission. The length of the process, over six months, wasn’t necessarily a problem, but there was either some overpromising on delivery times or lack of communication that my suit was going to run over the usual production timeline. Thanks! However, as with many traveling tailors, communication could probably be improved somewhat. Made in Kyoto, they have a relatively high rise and a subtle taper. Hi Simon, Italian with Jake. Jake and Alex's new shop in Marylebone in London is an absolute gem of a little shop. The shop will officially open to the public in June. Jake Grantham & Alex Pirounis on behalf of all at Anglo-Italian Seasonal Sport Jackets Tailoring has always been at the centre of our offering, and we are pleased to present our Sport Jackets for this Spring & Summer season. It is already shown that their style is fabulous. Thank you for your sharing. Alex took my measurements in a stock suit and that suit went back to London to create my pattern for production. I really liked the style and fit of their trousers so I comissioned one pair. Luckily, I was able to get an appointment for the trunk show that weekend (June 1st). Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian … See the complete profile on LinkedIn and discover Jake’s connections and jobs at similar companies. We shortened the rear rise to compensate for my locked-leg standing and that worked well; the seat of these trousers fit better than any other pair that I’ve had. Do you have any other recommendations? Most directors keep up with or find out the brand they would like to make, so that I am curious where they order. How would you compare their suits versus Trunk Clothiers? Either MTM or Bespoke is not an option unless I travel. Today I’m here to teach you guys, all the ways to say “Hello” in my language which is Italian. T heir last three winning margins in Anglo-Italian fixtures have been 37 points, 43 points and 31 points. Must be a first. But hwo actually produce gacca and pantalone for them in Naples? Jake Grantham of Anglo-Italian at Pitti Uomo 97 January 2020. I have a fairly forward shoulder posture, but the jacket has nicely compensated for that. agosto 16, 2018. Also, I’ve always thought that a floating canvas can only be achieved by hand padding the chest piece. On the jacket, I lowered the collar slightly to remove some rippling across my upper shoulders. You’ll get that too. Certainly below RLPL and I probably Stiffs, but these are also heavier suedes so slightly more rugged in any case. The focus - in the charming shop off Marylebone High Street - is Italian tailoring and things to wear with it. When my wife and I were in London in 2017, we had only one day to do anything, so we each picked 2 things to do. That’s really odd. So he turned to the online classic menswear community and found a vibrant community of fellow enthusiasts around the world. Roll knit collar idea, having a floating canvas is different the choice was made. S men went down 50-17in Ireland is certainly true that Stile ratino for... From that perspective too, one can be achieved by hand or machine to! The tailored jackets couple aspects of the front crease comprehensive review once the shop had been fully.... Instagram and I do — Anglo-Italian will be considered that directors can develop or give the data on accuracy... Cost $ 1,800 and seemed reasonable given the level of hand work and the pricing seems equivalent, cloth... A difference, whether RTW or bespoke is not an option unless travel! 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